Corduroy has quietly become a year-round staple. It has the warmth and texture of a winter fabric but, in its finer weights, the versatility of an everyday cotton, which is why it turns up on everything from workwear trousers to summer pinafores. The defining feature is the wale: the number of cords per inch, which sets how chunky or fine the finished cloth looks.
This collection runs the full wale range. The wale is the number of cords per inch, and the higher the number, the finer the rib. Jumbo cord, also called elephant cord, runs around 5 to 8 wales per inch: bold and warm, ideal for statement jackets, dungarees and structured skirts. Standard corduroy, roughly 8 to 11 wales and available in washed and stretch versions, is the classic trouser and dress weight. Stretch corduroy, blended with a little elastane, adds comfort for a closer fit. Needlecord, also called pin cord, is fine and soft at around 16 to 21 wales, with many lines Oeko-Tex certified, and suits shirts, dresses, skirts and children's clothes, while babycord is finer still. You'll also find printed and floral cords alongside the solid colours. Weights span roughly 125gsm to 337gsm, so check the product page for the exact cord and fibre.
Matching the wale to your project
As a rule, the chunkier the wale, the more structured the make. Jumbo and standard cords hold a tailored shape for trousers, jackets and dungarees. Needlecord and babycord are softer and drape more, so they suit shirts, gathered skirts, dresses and childrenswear. Stretch cords give a closer, more comfortable fit. For a fuller explanation of wales and how to sew with cord, our complete guide to corduroy and needlecord goes into more detail.
Sewing with corduroy
Corduroy has a pile, which makes it a napped fabric: cut all your pattern pieces in the same direction so the colour reads evenly, usually with the pile running upwards for a richer shade. Press on the reverse or over a towel to avoid crushing the cord, and a walking foot helps feed the heavier weights. Prewash if you plan to wash the finished garment, as cotton cord can shrink slightly on its first wash. Always follow the care guidance on the product page, as this varies by fibre.
