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Hoodie & Sweatshirt Sewing Patterns

Hoodie & Sweatshirt Sewing Patterns

A hoodie or a sweatshirt is one of the most satisfying things to sew: few pieces, straightforward seams, and a garment you'll actually wear on repeat. This collection gathers hoodie, sweatshirt, jumper, sweater and vest patterns from independent designers, in women's, men's and unisex sizing, from simple pullovers to half-zips, raglans and batwings. Most work happily on a domestic machine.
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Sweatshirts are the gateway garment for a lot of people, and with good reason. There's no zip to insert on most of them, no buttonholes, no lining, and the fabric is forgiving of a slightly wobbly seam. Yet a well-fitted one made in a good loopback or French terry is a genuinely nice piece of clothing, and it's the sort of thing that costs a surprising amount to buy well.

What's in the collection

Hoodie patterns cover pullover and zip-up styles, in women's, men's and unisex sizing, including half-zips and versions drafted for a relaxed or oversized fit. Sweatshirt patterns range from the plain crew-neck pullover to funnel necks, boxy raglans and cropped shapes. Jumper and sweater patterns take in batwing shapes, wrap sweaters and closer-fitting knit tops. There are also vests and gilets, and a number of patterns offering more than one view so a single purchase gives you a few garments.

The designers here include Wardrobe By Me, Jalie, Maison Fauve, True Bias, Merchant & Mills, Style Arc, Megan Nielsen, Named, Sew House Seven, Tessuti, Vikisews, Thread Theory and Liesl + Co, so between them the size ranges are broad and the drafting styles varied.

Choosing a fabric

This is the decision that makes or breaks the finished garment. Loopback jersey, sometimes called French terry, has a smooth face and looped back and is the classic sweatshirt cloth: stable, mid-weight and comfortable year round. Brushed back fleece or sweatshirting has the soft napped inside people associate with a cosy hoodie, and is warmer and a little heavier. Ponte roma is firmer and more stable, which suits structured or smarter styles. Lighter knits and interlocks work for slouchier tops but won't hold a hood's shape as well.

Check what stretch percentage the pattern asks for before you buy: a pattern drafted for a stable sweatshirting will end up too big in a stretchier knit, and one drafted for a stretchy jersey will be tight in a firm ponte. Most patterns state this in the fabric requirements. You'll also usually need ribbing for cuffs, hems and neckbands, and it's worth buying that at the same time so the colours match.

Sewing knits without a special machine

You don't need an overlocker. A domestic machine with a stretch or ballpoint needle and a narrow zigzag or a built-in stretch stitch will handle these fabrics perfectly well, and a walking foot helps if the layers shift. The two things that most often go wrong are skipped stitches, which usually means the wrong needle, and wavy stretched-out seams, which usually means too much pressure or pulling the fabric through. Stabilising the shoulder seams with clear elastic or a strip of interfacing stops them growing over time.

Are hoodies and sweatshirts good for a beginner to sew?

They're among the best first garments. Most have few pattern pieces, no zips or buttonholes on the pullover styles, no lining, and knit fabric hides a slightly uneven seam far better than a woven does. Fitting is forgiving too, since a relaxed shape doesn't need the precision a fitted shirt would. Check the skill level marked on the individual pattern, as zip-up and half-zip versions are a step up.

Do I need an overlocker to sew a sweatshirt?

No. A domestic sewing machine with a stretch or ballpoint needle and either a narrow zigzag or a built-in stretch stitch will sew knit fabric perfectly well. An overlocker gives a faster and tidier finish, but it isn't necessary. A walking foot is more useful than an overlocker if you're buying one thing, since it stops the layers shifting as they feed through.

What fabric should I use for a hoodie?

Loopback jersey, also called French terry, is the classic choice and works year round, with a smooth face and looped back. Brushed back fleece or sweatshirting is warmer and softer inside for a cosier hoodie. Ponte roma suits firmer, more structured styles. Whichever you pick, check the stretch percentage the pattern asks for, since a pattern drafted for a stable knit will come out too large in a stretchier one.

How much fabric do I need for a sweatshirt?

It varies with the size, the style and the fabric width, so the pattern's own fabric requirement chart is the number to work from rather than a general rule. Remember to add ribbing for the cuffs, neckband and hem, which is usually listed separately and is easy to forget. If the fabric has a nap or a one-way print, allow extra, since all the pieces have to face the same direction.

What sizes do these patterns come in?

It varies by designer, and the range across this collection is broad. Several of the designers here draft to extended size ranges, some offer separate size-range versions of the same pattern, and there are men's and unisex patterns as well as women's. The size range is listed on each product page, and it's always worth choosing from your body measurements rather than the size you buy in shops.

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