Dobby Fabric

Dobby sits in a useful gap. It reads as a plain fabric from a few feet away, then resolves into a fine woven texture close up, which makes it one of the easier ways to add interest to a simple garment without committing to a print. Because the texture is woven in, it survives washing and wear in a way a surface finish doesn't.

The bulk of this range is fine cotton: dobby voiles and muslins with a small self-coloured spot or stripe, light enough for summer blouses, dresses and children's clothes. There are heavier woven dobbies in here too, along with the occasional dobby chambray, which behave more like a shirting. The grid above is the definitive list of what's in stock today.

What to make with it

The lightweight cotton dobbies suit anything soft and gathered: blouses, tiered dresses, wide-leg summer trousers, nightwear. They take a gather beautifully because the cloth is fine but the texture stops it looking flat.

The heavier dobbies and dobby chambrays hold more shape and work for shirts, shirt dresses and lighter jackets.

Dobby is also a sensible choice for anyone nervous about pattern matching. The repeats are small and regular, so cutting is far more forgiving than it would be on a large print or a directional jacquard.

Sewing dobby

Treat the lighter weights as you would voile. A fine sharp needle, a shorter stitch length and a slow, even feed will stop the fabric shifting under the foot. If the seams pucker, drop the tension slightly and try a fresh needle before doing anything else.

Press on the wrong side. Pressing hard on the face can flatten the raised texture, which is the whole point of the cloth. A cool iron and a light touch is enough on cotton dobby, and it presses most easily when it's still a little damp.