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Hanakotoba Japanese Floral Viscose Fabric Petrol Blue Twist

Viscose Challis Fabric

Viscose challis is a soft, lightweight fabric with beautiful fluid drape, which makes it a favourite for blouses, dresses and gathered skirts where movement matters. Most of our range is printed, with florals, paisleys and plains to choose from.

Challis is one of the most popular weaves in our wider viscose fabrics collection. Order a sample to feel the drape before you commit to a project.

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Challis is a lightweight, plain-woven fabric, here made from viscose, known for its soft handle and graceful drape. Because it's woven rather than knitted it doesn't stretch, but it moves and gathers beautifully, which is exactly why it suits flowing summer garments. It presses well and is comfortable and breathable to wear.

What is viscose challis?

Viscose is a fibre made from regenerated cellulose, often called rayon, which gives the softness of a natural fibre with a smooth, fluid finish. Challis describes the lightweight plain weave. Together they make a fabric that's light without being sheer, with the kind of drape that works for dresses and blouses. This collection also includes a few related fabrics such as Tencel and Lyocell lawn and some stretch challis, so check the product page for the exact fibre and whether a piece has stretch.

What to make with viscose challis

Challis is at its best in garments that rely on drape and movement: wrap dresses, shirt dresses, blouses, gathered and bias skirts, wide-leg trousers and co-ords. Its fluid handle suits patterns with gathers, frills and soft shaping, and it's a comfortable, breathable choice for warm-weather sewing.

Sewing and caring for viscose challis

Because it's soft and slippery, challis can shift when cutting, so lay it flat, cut in a single layer where you can, and use plenty of pins or pattern weights. A fine needle and neat seam finish help, as viscose can fray. Pre-wash before cutting, as viscose may shrink a little on the first wash, then wash on a cool, gentle cycle and press while slightly damp for the best finish, unless the care label states otherwise.

What is viscose challis and is it the same as rayon?

Viscose challis is a lightweight, plain-woven fabric made from viscose fibres, prized for its soft handle and fluid drape. Viscose and rayon are essentially the same fibre, with rayon the term used more in North America. Challis refers to the light plain weave rather than the fibre itself.

Does viscose challis stretch?

Most viscose challis is woven and doesn't stretch, though it moves and drapes very fluidly. This collection does include a few stretch challis fabrics, so if you need give, check the product page to see whether a particular piece has stretch before you buy.

Is viscose challis see-through, and does it need lining?

It's light but usually not sheer, though paler colours and very fine qualities can be a little see-through. Whether a garment needs lining depends on the fabric and the design. If you're unsure, hold a sample up to the light or line skirts and dresses for extra coverage and a better hang.

Is viscose challis hard to sew?

It's soft and a touch slippery, so it can shift when cutting and may fray, but it's manageable with a few steps: cut in a single layer, use pattern weights or plenty of pins, fit a fine needle and finish the seams neatly. The results are well worth it for the drape.

Does viscose challis shrink, and should I pre-wash it?

Viscose can shrink slightly on its first wash, so we recommend pre-washing before cutting, using the method you'll use for the finished garment, unless the care label advises otherwise. Afterwards, a cool, gentle wash and pressing while slightly damp keeps it looking its best.

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