Shirting is a fabric type defined by its job. It needs to be smooth enough to press crisply, fine enough to sit well at a collar and cuff, and stable enough to hold a clean seam, which is why closely woven cottons have always been the shirtmaker's default. The right shirting is the difference between a shirt that looks handmade in the good sense and one that looks homemade.
This collection covers the cottons that make a good shirt or blouse. Chambray is a strength here, with its soft, slightly faded look and easy handle, lovely for relaxed shirts and dresses. Crisp cotton shirting, including Italian ex-designer cloth and shadow stripes, presses sharply for a more formal shirt. Textured and brushed cottons add a bit of warmth and interest, while fine cotton lawn, voile and double gauze give the softest, most breathable options for summer shirts, blouses and nightwear.
Choosing a shirting weight
Weight sets the character of the shirt. Lighter, crisp cottons such as poplin-weight and lawn suit formal shirts, blouses and summer styles that need to sit smartly. Mid-weight cottons and chambray are the everyday choice, soft enough to be comfortable but stable enough to look tidy. Brushed and textured cottons lean towards casual, cosier shirts. If you're not sure, a sample tells you far more about crispness and handle than a photo can.
Sewing shirts
Cotton shirting is one of the most beginner-friendly fabrics to sew, which is part of why the classic shirt is such a rite of passage. It presses beautifully, holds a crease for collars and plackets, and doesn't shift much under the machine. Prewash before cutting, as cotton can shrink on its first wash. As a rough guide, a shirt takes around 2 to 2.5 metres at 150cm wide, though your pattern will give the exact figure.
