Croft Mill

Folkwear - Poiret Cocoon Coat Sewing Pattern (XS-L)

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Difficulty: Intermediate

Sizes: XS-L (approx. UK 4/6-16 based on our size chart)

Please always check the pattern size chart and finished garment measurements.


This fully-lined Cocoon Coat pattern draws inspiration from the visionary designs of Paul Poiret, a renowned fashion designer of the early 20th century. Poiret is celebrated for liberating women from the confines of 19th-century corsets, even though he introduced extremely narrow skirt hems in his designs, and for modernising the Victorian silhouette. In Poiret's own words, "I like a plain gown, cut from light and supple fabric, which falls from the shoulders to the feet in long, straight folds, like thick liquid, just touching the outline of the figure and throwing shadow and light over the moving form."

The fully-lined Cocoon Coat was originally crafted between 1913 and 1919. This pattern features batwing sleeves, a one-piece front/back body, a neckband, and a hobble skirt, embodying a timeless style that looks equally stunning when paired with a simple T-shirt and leggings as it does when worn over evening attire.

In addition to the Cocoon Coat, they offer a pattern for a Reticule, a drawstring bag typical of the same period. This easy-to-sew pouch is fastened with decorative cording and adorned with a tassel that gracefully dangles from the bottom, capturing the elegance and charm of the era.

Recommended Fabric

For the coat: Medium to heavyweight fabrics with drape such as, velvet, silk charmeuse, heavy viscose or jersey.

For reticule: Same fabric as the coat, also satin and blends.

For linings: Satin or blends with similar drape and weight to outer fabric.


  • Coat: Thread

  • 1 yd (91cm) of 45″ (115cm) wide lightweight woven interfacing

  • 3 1/2 yd (3.2m) of medium-gauge cotton cable cord and 1 yd (91cm) of fabric for piping, or 3 1/2 yd (3.2m) of pre-made piping

  • 5 yd (4.57m) of 1″ (2.5cm) wide flexible decorative ribbon to finish inside edges of coat (stiff ribbons such as grosgrain are not suitable)

  • 24″ (61cm) of chain weight for hem

  • 1x decorative button, 1 1/4″ (3.2cm) diameter, or one frog closure.


  • Thread

  • 2 yd (1.83m) of decorative cording for ties; one pre-made decorative tassel, approx. 7″ (18cm) long

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15th Dec 2023, 14:01
I have not yet embarked on this project, but I'm delighted with the look of the pattern and look forward to creating a timeless piece in time for the New Year!

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