Pleated & Crinkle Fabric

Textured fabrics like crinkle and pleats do a lot of the work for you. The finish is set into the cloth, so it holds its shape without pressing, adds movement and body to a simple shape, and, in the case of crinkle, means you can more or less skip the iron altogether. It's the sort of fabric that makes an easy make look considered.

Crinkle, plissé and pleated: what's the difference?

The three are related but not the same. Crinkle, also called crushed fabric, has an all-over puckered texture, relaxed and irregular, and it's the bulk of this collection in cotton, viscose and chiffon. Plissé, from the French for pleated, is a finer, more regular puckered finish. Pleated fabric has pressed-in folds that are sharper and more structured, usually in polyester, and reads as dressier. Crinkle is casual and breezy; pleats are for occasion wear.

What to make

Crinkle cotton and poly-cotton are light and breathable, perfect for relaxed summer dresses, blouses, shirts and children's clothes. Crinkle viscose drapes more, lovely for palazzo trousers and floaty summer dresses. Crinkle chiffon suits skirts, puff sleeves, blouses and overlays. Pleated polyester comes into its own for occasion and eveningwear: statement skirts, party dresses and gowns.

Caring for crinkle and pleats

The golden rule: don't iron the texture out. High, direct heat will flatten a crinkle or a pleat permanently, which defeats the point of the fabric. Wash cool, at 30 degrees or below, skip the fabric softener, and to revive a crinkle you can twist the damp fabric into a rope and let it dry that way. If you must smooth something, steam at a distance rather than pressing. Follow the care guidance on the individual product page.