Bridal Fabrics

A wedding dress lives or dies by its fabric. The same pattern can read as structured and formal in a heavy duchess satin, or soft and modern in a fluid crepe, so the wedding dress fabric is worth as much thought as the design. Making your own, or having one made, also means you choose the exact weight, shade and finish rather than settling for what's on the rail.

Structure comes from the heavier cloths. Bridal satins such as duchess satin, crepe-backed satin and satin-backed crepe hold a sculpted bodice and a full skirt, and brocade and jacquard add woven pattern with body for a more formal look. For fluid, contemporary shapes, the crepes, including triple crepe and silk-blend crepe, drape close to the body, while georgette and chiffon give soft movement and work beautifully as overlays. Bridal lace, in styles from delicate Chantilly to bolder corded designs, and organza add sheer detail at necklines, sleeves and veils. Widths sit around 135cm to 154cm, useful to know when you're working out yardage.

Choosing bridal fabric by part of the dress

Bodices and structured skirts want the firmer satins, satin-backed crepe or brocade, which hold their shape without extra boning doing all the work. Soft, draped skirts and column dresses suit crepe, georgette and chiffon, which fall rather than stand. Overlays, veils and sheer sleeves are where lace, organza and fine chiffon come in, layered over a satin or crepe base. If you're matching a lining or an underlayer, order samples of both together so you can check the shade in daylight.

Beyond the wedding dress

The same fabrics carry across the rest of the occasion. Bridesmaid dresses, mother-of-the-bride outfits, prom and eveningwear all draw on the same satins, crepes and brocades, so it's worth thinking of this as an occasion collection rather than only a bridal one. Many of the fabrics come in a spread of colours as well as classic ivory and white. Check the individual product page for fibre content and width, as these vary, and order a sample before cutting into anything where the shade has to be exact.

Caring for bridal and occasion fabric

Delicate cloths reward a gentle hand. Press satin and crepe on a low heat from the reverse, ideally over a pressing cloth, and steam rather than iron tulle, lace and organza so you don't crush or scorch them. Test any pressing on a sample first, and store finished pieces hung or laid flat and out of direct light. Always follow the care guidance on the individual product page, as this varies by fibre.