Drill, Twill & Chino Fabric

Drill, twill and chino are all variations on the same idea: a twill weave, where the threads cross in a way that creates fine diagonal lines across the face of the cloth. That structure makes the fabric strong, hard-wearing and naturally resistant to creasing, which is exactly what you want for trousers and workwear that get worn hard and washed often.

Drill, twill and chino explained

The names describe weight and finish as much as anything else. Twill is the broad family and tends to be the lighter, more flexible option. Drill is a heavier, denser twill, traditionally used for workwear and uniforms where durability matters most. Chino is a smoother, finer cotton twill with a soft sheen, the classic smart-casual trouser cloth. They overlap, so use the weight as your main guide rather than the name alone.

Choosing the right weight

Weight is the most useful thing to get right for trousers, so check the individual product page for the figure quoted:

• Lighter weights: softer chinos, summer trousers and skirts with a bit of movement.
• Mid weights: everyday trousers and structured skirts, the most versatile choice for dressmaking.
• Heavier weights: workwear trousers, dungarees, jackets and bags that need to stand up to heavy use.

Fibres in this collection

Despite the trouser-fabric name, this range isn't all cotton, so it's worth reading the fibre content on each product. Alongside 100% cotton drill, twill and chino, you'll find stretch blends with a little elastane for fitted trousers, plus wool, viscose and Tencel twills that drape more softly for tailored trousers and skirts. Choose cotton for hard-wearing structure and a blend where you want stretch or a fluid finish.

Sewing trousers and structured makes

These fabrics are stable and forgiving to sew, which makes them a sound choice for your first pair of trousers. Topstitching sits well on a twill, and a slightly longer stitch length suits the heavier weights. If you want a closer fit, pick a fabric with a small amount of stretch. As with any natural fibre, pre-wash and dry cotton drill and twill before cutting, unless the care label states otherwise, as the heavier weights in particular can shrink on the first wash.