Croft Mill

Folkwear - Unisex Japanese Hakama & Kataginu Pattern

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Difficulty: Intermediate

Sizes: Kataginu: One size

Hakama: Waist 24″-42″ (approx. UK 6-24 based on our size chart)

Please always check the pattern size chart and finished garment measurements.


During Japan's Edo period (1615-1868), the samurai class wore the Kamishimo, consisting of the Kataginu vest and Hakama pants/skirt. Worn over a knee-length kimono for formality, they're now used in official occasions, martial arts, and historic reenactments.

The Hakama, a pleated garment, doesn't require a large rectangle pattern piece; instead, detailed instructions guide you in measuring, cutting, and pleating it to fit. Pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles are included.

Optional side panels are provided for contemporary sportswear, filling in side-seam gaps seen in traditional wear. The wide-shouldered Kataginu, easy to pleat and sew, can match the Hakama for a traditional samurai look or serve as a striking contrast for wearable art.

Recommended Fabric

For the Kataginu, choose from crisp, tightly woven cottons; linens and linen blends; ramie; hemp; or silks such as shantung, habotai, pongee, satin, or taffeta. Note that you may need to starch the fabric to maintain the pleats.

For the Hakama, the same fabrics as the Kataginu are suitable, along with lightweight wool suiting.


  • Interfacing or other stiffening material for the koshiita (backboard) insert

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