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Dusky Pink Floral Print Dress Fabric Italian Challis Diascia

Viscose Challis Fabric

Viscose challis is a lightweight, plain-woven viscose, also sold as rayon challis, with a soft handle and a fluid drape. It's the go-to fabric for summer dresses, blouses and gathered skirts where movement matters. Most of this range is printed, from florals and paisleys to small all-over designs, with some plains. For crepes, twills and the rest of the range, see our viscose fabric collection.
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Challis is defined by its weave rather than its fibre: a light, plain weave with a soft, matt finish. Woven in viscose, it gives a fabric that's light without being sheer and moves with the body, which is why it's such a staple for warm-weather dressmaking. Rayon challis is the same cloth under its American name, so a pattern that calls for rayon challis is asking for exactly this.

What to make with viscose challis

Choose challis for anything that relies on drape: wrap and shirt dresses, tiered and gathered skirts, blouses with gathers or frills, wide-leg trousers and co-ords. It doesn't hold a crisp shape, so it's less suited to tailored pieces. For those, viscose twill gives more structure while keeping the same soft feel.

Coverage and stretch

Most challis isn't sheer, but paler colours and the finest qualities can show through. Lining a skirt or dress gives more coverage and a better hang, and holding a sample up to the light is the easiest way to check. A few pieces in this collection are stretch challis with added elastane, so check the product page if you need some give.

Challis takes print well, which is why most of our florals and paisleys are on it. Print scale can be hard to judge on screen, so if the size of a motif matters for your pattern, order a sample and lay it against the pattern pieces before you buy.

Sewing and caring for viscose challis

Because it's soft and slippery, challis can shift when you cut it. Lay it flat, cut in a single layer where you can, and use pattern weights or plenty of pins. A fine needle and a neat seam finish help, as viscose can fray. Pre-wash before cutting, as it may shrink a little on the first wash, then wash on a cool, gentle cycle and press while slightly damp for the best finish, unless the care label states otherwise.

What is viscose challis fabric?

Viscose challis is a lightweight, plain-woven fabric made from viscose, known for its soft handle and fluid drape. "Challis" describes the light plain weave and "viscose" the fibre. It's used mainly for dresses, blouses and skirts.

Is rayon challis the same as viscose challis?

Yes. Rayon is the North American name for viscose, so rayon challis and viscose challis are the same fabric. If a pattern lists rayon challis, viscose challis is the fabric to buy.

Does viscose challis stretch?

Most viscose challis is woven and doesn't stretch, though it moves and drapes very fluidly. This collection includes a few stretch challis fabrics, so if you need give, check the product page to see whether a particular piece has stretch before you buy.

Is viscose challis see-through?

It's light but usually not sheer, though paler colours and very fine qualities can be a little see-through. Whether a garment needs lining depends on the fabric and the design. If you're unsure, hold a sample up to the light, or line skirts and dresses for extra coverage and a better hang.

Does viscose challis shrink when washed?

Viscose can shrink slightly on its first wash, so we recommend pre-washing before cutting, using the method you'll use for the finished garment, unless the care label advises otherwise. Afterwards, a cool, gentle wash and pressing while slightly damp keeps it looking its best.

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