Cotton Fabric for Dressmaking

Cotton is the fibre most people learn to sew on, and for good reason. It cuts cleanly, presses well, holds a seam and doesn't slip about under the machine. It's also one of the most varied fabrics we stock: the same fibre can be woven into something almost sheer or something tough enough for a work jacket, so the weave and weight tell you more than the word "cotton" on the label.

Choosing a cotton by weight

Lightweight cottons such as cotton lawn, voile and muslin are fine, soft and breathable, for blouses, summer dresses, nightwear and linings. Pima cotton lawn, woven from extra-long staple cotton, is the softest of these.

Mid-weight cottons include cotton poplin, shirting and seersucker. They have more body, so they suit shirts, shirt dresses, skirts and shorts that need to hold their shape.

Heavier cottons such as denim, canvas, twill and brushed cotton are hardwearing or warm, for trousers, overshirts, jackets, pyjamas and winter clothes.

Printed cottons run across every weight, from small florals on lawn to bold designs on poplin and canvas. Use the pattern and colour filters to narrow them down, and order a sample if the scale of a print matters for your make.

For knitted cotton with stretch, see cotton jersey fabric.

100% cotton or a blend?

Pure cotton is breathable and comfortable, while a blend adds something cotton doesn't have on its own, such as stretch from elastane or fewer creases from polyester. To see only pure cotton, select Yes in the 100% Yarn Content filter. Looking beyond cotton? Our dressmaking fabrics collection covers linen, viscose, silk and wool as well.

Washing cotton fabric

Most cotton can shrink on its first wash, so pre-wash before you cut, using the method you'll use for the finished garment. Darker and brighter colours are best washed separately the first time. Check the product page and care label for any fabric that needs gentler handling.