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Cotton Shirting Fabric

Good shirting makes a good shirt. This collection gathers cotton shirting fabric for shirts, blouses and light dresses, from crisp Italian cottons and shadow stripes to soft chambray, textured weaves and fine lawns. There's a weight and handle for every shirt, whether you want something sharp and formal or soft and relaxed. Sold by the metre. Order a sample first to feel the crispness before you cut.

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Shirting is a fabric type defined by its job. It needs to be smooth enough to press crisply, fine enough to sit well at a collar and cuff, and stable enough to hold a clean seam, which is why closely woven cottons have always been the shirtmaker's default. The right shirting is the difference between a shirt that looks handmade in the good sense and one that looks homemade.

This collection covers the cottons that make a good shirt or blouse. Chambray is a strength here, with its soft, slightly faded look and easy handle, lovely for relaxed shirts and dresses. Crisp cotton shirting, including Italian ex-designer cloth and shadow stripes, presses sharply for a more formal shirt. Textured and brushed cottons add a bit of warmth and interest, while fine cotton lawn, voile and double gauze give the softest, most breathable options for summer shirts, blouses and nightwear.

Choosing a shirting weight

Weight sets the character of the shirt. Lighter, crisp cottons such as poplin-weight and lawn suit formal shirts, blouses and summer styles that need to sit smartly. Mid-weight cottons and chambray are the everyday choice, soft enough to be comfortable but stable enough to look tidy. Brushed and textured cottons lean towards casual, cosier shirts. If you're not sure, a sample tells you far more about crispness and handle than a photo can.

Sewing shirts

Cotton shirting is one of the most beginner-friendly fabrics to sew, which is part of why the classic shirt is such a rite of passage. It presses beautifully, holds a crease for collars and plackets, and doesn't shift much under the machine. Prewash before cutting, as cotton can shrink on its first wash. As a rough guide, a shirt takes around 2 to 2.5 metres at 150cm wide, though your pattern will give the exact figure.

How much fabric do I need for a shirt?

As a rough guide, a shirt takes around 2 to 2.5 metres of 150cm-wide cotton, though it varies with your size and the style. Always check your pattern's fabric requirements, and allow a little extra if you're matching a stripe or check across the seams.

What's the best cotton for a shirt?

It depends on the shirt. Crisp poplin-weight and Italian shirting press sharply for a formal look; chambray gives a softer, more relaxed shirt; and fine lawn is ideal for summer blouses. Weight and crispness matter more than anything, so a sample is the best guide.

Is chambray the same as denim?

Not quite. Chambray is a lighter, plain-woven cotton with a similar soft, faded look to denim but a finer, more shirt-friendly handle. Denim is heavier and woven as a twill. Chambray is the one you want for shirts and light dresses.

Do I need to prewash shirting?

Yes, it's worth it. Cotton can shrink a little on its first wash, so prewashing before you cut means the finished shirt keeps its fit. Follow the care guidance on the individual product page, as this varies.

Can I order a sample before buying?

Yes. Most fabrics are available as a sample so you can check the weight, crispness and colour before committing to a full cut. Use the Order Sample option on the product page.

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