Croft Mill

Sewing Your Best Coat: Tips on Picking Your Next Coating Fabric & Pattern

Greetings, fellow sewing enthusiasts! By popular request we’ve been swotting up on all-things “coating”. We are here to tell you everything you need to know about the best fabrics to use and which patterns work with these fabrics. And trust us; we know a fair bit about sewing for the cold. In the north, where we are no stranger to a bit of drizzle and winter winds can give you a good nudge, having a decent coat is more than just a fashion statement—it's a necessity.

So, grab your cuppa and settle in as we dive into the delightful world of coat-making. Whether you're a seasoned stitcher or a novice with a needle, choosing the right fabric and pattern for your coat can make all the difference. Join us as we explore various types of coats and discover the ideal fabrics to bring your visions to life.

Pick Your Design

The Classic Trench Coat: timeless and iconic as they are, trench coats demand fabrics that marry style and functionality. Consider options like Gabardine for its durability and water-resistant properties. Alternatively, Cotton Twill works well for a lighter trench suited to milder climates. The key here is to strike a balance between elegance and practicality. Opt for a pattern that highlights the iconic features - belted, double-breasted, with epaulettes.
Fabric Recommendations - Ex-Designer Water Resistant Fabrics | Coated Cotton | Waxed Cotton
Pattern Recom­men­dations Vikisews - Reggie Coat | Monsterfabriken - Ada Coat | Merchant & Mills - September Coat

Lightweight Coating WPBonded CottonWaxed Cotton

Plain_Wax_Cotton_Lanx_Wax_Light_Brown_reverse_Folds Monsterfabriken_Ada_Coat_Sewing_Pattern_Cover The_September_Pattern_Merchant_Mills_UK_20-28_1

Viki Sews Reggie Coat

  Monster­fab­riken - Ada Coat

Merchant & Mills - September Coat

Cosy Winter Coat: Choose a design with a relaxed fit, perhaps a tailored silhouette for a touch of sophistication. Embrace the warmth of wool, faux fur or fleece - perfect for chilly winters. Wool mouflon or boiled wool are excellent choices.
Fabric Recommendations - Mouflon | Boiled Wool | Chunky Wool Knits | Faux Fur | Fleece
Pattern Recommendations - Vikisews - Men’s Bernard Coat | Maison Fauve - Ray Coat | Tessuti - Sydney Jacket


Blazers are the chameleons of outerwear, transitioning effortlessly from casual to formal settings. For a traditional look and structure, Wool is your go-to choice. If you're leaning towards a more laid-back vibe, opt for Linen Blend for breathability. Weight matters; choose accordingly to match the desired style and season.
Fabric Recommendations - Wool Melton | Wool Flannel Tweed | Boiled Wool 
Patterns Recommendations - Vikisews - Ariadna BlazerFriday Pattern Company - Heather Blazer | Closet Core Patterns - Jasika Blazer

Auburn Blazer Cashmerette Friday Pattern Company The Heather Blazer Friday Pattern Company The Heather Blazer

Cashmerette - Auburn Blazer

Piacenza Italian Wool

Friday Pattern Company - Heather Blazer

Stylish Pea Coat: Look for a double-breasted design with a wide collar for that classic naval-inspired look. Opt for a medium-weight wool blend to achieve the right balance of warmth and style.
Fabric Recom­men­dations - Wool Coating | Tweed | Boiled Wool
Pattern Recommendations - Thread Theory - Men’s Goldstream Peacoat


Quilted Jacket for Everyday Comfort: Keep it casual with a quilted jacket pattern featuring a zip or button front. Quilted cotton or a cosy flannel lining will ensure both comfort and style. Fabric Recom­men­dations - Quilted Wool | Quilted Fabric
Patterns Recommendations - Vikisews – Gail Jacket | Megan Nielsen - Hovea Curve Jacket & Coat | Grainline Studio - Thayer Jacket

Quilted Fabrics

Hovea Jacket Megan Nielson

Chic Cape/Overcoat for Effortless Elegance: Choose a flowing, loose silhouette with optional arm slits for practicality. Wool or a heavy silk for a touch of luxury, providing that perfect drape. Fabric Recom­men­dations - Wool Coating | Water Resistant Silk/­Wool/­Cotton
Pattern Recommendations - Folkwear - Poiret Cocoon Coat | Vikisews - Neya Anorak | Sewaholic - Cypress Cape

Folkwear Basics overcoat Friday Pattern Company The Heather Blazer Friday Pattern Company The Heather Blazer

Folkwear - Basics Over Coat

Water Resistant Silk

Sewaholic - Cypress Cape

Versatile Parka for Outdoor Adventures: Prioritize functionality with a parka pattern, complete with a hood and plenty of pockets. Water-resistant fabrics like waxed cotton or technical fabrics will keep you dry during unpredictable Lancashire weather.
Fabric Recommendations - Wool Coating | Tweed | Waxed Cotton
Pattern Recommendations - Merchant & Mills - TN31 Parka

Folkwear Basics overcoat Friday Pattern Company The Heather Blazer Friday Pattern Company The Heather Blazer

100% Italian Cashmere

Merchant & Mills - TN31 Parka


Weathering the Storm: When to Use Waterproof Fabrics:

As the seasons change, so should your approach to fabric selection. When aiming for weatherproof perfection, turn to fabrics like bonded cotton, as well as PU coated cottons and polyester, providing high-performance breathability. If style meets functionality, consider Waxed Cotton, adding a touch of rugged charm to your creation.

So that’s it for now; we couldn’t possible cover everything so if you want to know a bit more about our fabulous coating fabrics or if you want our advice on what fabrics would work with your next pattern feel free to message us.

Share Your Creations:

We'd love to see the masterpieces you create! Share your sewing triumphs and tag us on social media. Let's celebrate the art of coat and jacket making together.

Posted in Guides and tagged fabric guides, sewing pattern guides, coating fabrics, wool fabric on