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Denim Fabric

Denim Fabric

Denim fabric for dressmaking is available in a wide variety of weights, washes and fibre blends, from traditional 100% cotton denim to stretch denims and premium Italian deadstock fabrics. Whether you're sewing everyday wardrobe staples or more structured garments, there's a denim to suit the job.

Our collection includes lightweight chambray-style denims for shirts, blouses and summer dresses, mid-weight denims for skirts, dresses and trousers, and heavier denim fabrics for jeans, jackets and workwear-inspired projects. You'll also find stretch denim fabrics that offer extra comfort and ease of movement, alongside occasional limited-stock Italian deadstock pieces.

Use the filters to refine your search by weight, colour, stretch, fibre content or wash. If you're looking for 100% cotton denim fabric, select Yes under 100% yarn content in the filter.

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Denim Fabric Weight Guide

Denim weight is measured in ounces per square yard (oz) or grams per square metre (gsm). The weight you choose affects both the construction process and how the finished garment wears.

  • Lightweight denim: Under 8oz (under 270gsm) - suits shirts, summer dresses and softer, draped styles.
  • Mid-weight denim: 8oz–11oz (270gsm–370gsm) - the classic jeans weight, most widely used for everyday dressmaking.
  • Heavy-weight denim: 12oz+ (400gsm+) - ideal for traditional jeans, structured jackets and workwear-style pieces.

Sewing with denim

Denim benefits from a denim or jeans needle rather than a standard one - a size 90/14 or 100/16 helps prevent skipped stitches through the tight twill weave. Pressing seams open as you go produces a neater finish, particularly on bulky seams like inseams and waistbands. Pre-washing is recommended before cutting, as raw denim can shrink noticeably on the first wash.

Denim has a long history in Lancashire - it was produced here as a working cloth until the 1980s, not far from where we are now. Today we source from mills across the UK and Europe, including occasional Italian deadstock pieces that bring something different to the range.

What weight of denim fabric is best for jeans?

For traditional jeans, most dressmakers choose a mid to heavy-weight denim. Denims around 8oz to 11oz are popular for everyday jeans, offering durability without being overly stiff. Heavier denims are often used for more structured jeans and jackets, while lighter-weight denims are better suited to dresses, shirts, skirts and summer trousers. The right choice depends on how much structure you want in the finished garment.

What is the difference between denim and chambray?

Although both fabrics are commonly made from cotton and often come in similar shades of blue, they are constructed differently. Denim is woven with a twill structure, creating the familiar diagonal lines that give it strength and durability. Chambray uses a plain weave, making it lighter, softer and more fluid. As a result, chambray is often chosen for shirts, blouses and lightweight dresses, while denim is better suited to jeans, skirts, jackets and trousers.

Can I sew denim on a home sewing machine?

In most cases, yes. Many home sewing machines will happily sew denim, particularly lighter and mid-weight qualities. For best results, we recommend using a denim or jeans needle and matching the needle size to the weight of the fabric. If you're working with heavier denim or multiple layers, sewing more slowly and taking extra care over bulky seams can make the job much easier.

Does denim fabric shrink when washed?

Some denim fabrics can shrink during their first wash, particularly 100% cotton denims and untreated denims. We recommend pre-washing your fabric before cutting out your project using the same washing method you intend to use for the finished garment. This helps avoid any unwanted surprises once your sewing is complete.

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